Device for waving and curling hair



Nov. 20, 1928.

A. CRAIG DEVICE FOR WAVING AND CURLING HAIR Filed Dec. 5, 1927 Inventor:

Patented Nov. 20, 1928.

UNITED STATES ALEXANDER CRAIG, OF LONDON, ENGLAND.

DEVICE FOR WAVING AND CURLING'HAIR.

Application filed December 3, 1927,. Serial No. 237,553, and in Great"Britain Maya6, 1927.

This invention relates to devices for waving and curling hair and hasfor its principal object to provide means by which the hair can bewoundton-toa curling rod-or the *like-of-any suitable description andsimultaneously subjected to pressure or compression, and with outtensioning or stretchingithe hair.

It has for a further object to provide winding means to icoil the hairon to .the'rod, he winding means having combined therewith heatingmeanszof any desired type, so that the hair whilst being coiled-onthe rod is subjected to heat as well as to pressure or compression.

A further object is to maintain the coiled hair, under pressure orcompression, whilst being treated, and a still further object is to coilthe hair in flat somewhat rectangular section helices, the longerdimension of the rec tanglebeing at right angles to the axis.

Another object is to combine with the curling rod t-wo pressure plates,one normally fixed at the-end of the rod but from which it is preferablydetachable,.and theother mounted around the rod and adapted to slide intight frictional engagementtherewithor with the sinzroundingwindercasing. Still another object is to cause the hair whilst beingwound to enter between the pressure plates to pro- 1C0 the flatrectangular section coils and to rce the frictionally mounted .plateaway from the other plate, thus subjecting the hair to pressure uponentering between the plates and maintaining the hair under pressurewhilst subjected to treatment between the pressure plates, by heat withor without suit- :able compounds.

In order that the invention may be better understood, it will now bedescribed with reference .to the accompanying drawing in which Fig. 1-is .a somewhat diagrammatic elevation of one form of rod, winder, andwinding means constructed according to the invention.

Fig. 2 is an exterior elevation of the curler vand winderconibinechshown to a larger scale.

Fig. 3 shows asimilar view [to Fig. 2 with parts in section.

4 isan under plano'f Fig. 2.

Fig. 5 is "a sectional plan taken from below on the line 5-f5 Fig. 3.

Fig. 6 is a section on the line =66, Fig. 8.

Fig. 7 showsa sideelevatlion of the movable or upper pressure plate,drawn to a larger scale. i I

Fig. 8 also shows to the same scale the frictional gripping member whichcarries the: ,a

Fig. 11 is a fragmentary elevation, partly- .in section, of the lowerportion of the combined winder and rod illustrating the method ofcoilingthe hair, and

Fig. 12 shows a diagrammatic .view, to a larger scale, illustrating the"coils of .the hair,

as wound on the curler inadeaccord-ing t0 the invention, the separatecoils being drawn apart to show their formation. V

In the drawmgs, the winder comprises an outer cylindrical casing 14 with:a longitudi-.

.nal slot 15, anda smaller inner cylindrical casing 16 also formed witha longitudinailslot. The casings 14 and 16are coaxial and'the slots comein the :same radial position, the edges .tiereof being joined togetherat 1.7. The lower end of the combined casing is closed at 18 and theupper end is left open. The space between the inner andouter-cylindrical casings 16 and 14 forms a receptacle fora shapedelectrical heating element 19.- At the upper end the casings 14and 16are carried by a collar 20of insulating material having pins '21projecting therefrom, the said pins being in electrical connection withthe windings of .the heater 19. 22 is a connecti-ng member of insulatingmaterial which has mounted therein a ring member '23 of insulatmaterialwhich is adapted to rotate in the connecting member 22. The ringmember23, has grooves on its exterior .in which are mounted. contact makingmembers .in connection with the leads ofa-cable 24. One o-f'thesecontact members makes electrical connection with'one-of the pins 21 andthe other with the other pin so that when the ring 23 rotates in.

the connector 22 the pins 21-arealways irn electrical connection withthe connections from the leads 24. 25 is anenlarged boss-mounted looselyin the inner casing of the winder, which boss is furnished with a notch26- at the upper side. The inner casing of the winder has connectedthereto a sleeve member 27 which passes right through the ring .28 andconnector 22 and serves to secure the whole winder in a rotatable manner.to the connec tor 22. It is retained in position bymeans of a collar28.

The upper end of the sleeve member 27 is notched at 29 and is adapted tocooperate with any suitable winding device which may be hand or poweroperated. For example the winding device shown in Fig. 1 may beemployed. This comprises two levers 30 and 31 having turned round ends32 and 33. The turned round end 32 is formed with a bearing 34 for oneend of a shaft or spindle 35. This shaft or spindle 35 has keyed thereona ratchet wheel 36 and mounted loosely between the bearing 34 andratchet wheel 36 is a toothed wheel 37. The turned round member 33 onthe underside is formed with a rack, the teeth of which engage with theteeth of the wheel 37. The arm 30 at the other end is provided withanother bearing 38 for the shaft 35 and to this hearing the arm 31 ispivoted at 39 as shown. Spring means, not shown on the drawing, isincorporated between the arms 30 and 31, for example at the hinge,tending to keep the arms drawn apart, in which position they aremaintained normally by means of a stop, at the hinge or between thearms. This position is shown at Fig. 1. When the arms 30 and 31 aregripped together the teeth of the rack on the member 33 cause the wheel37 to be turned. This wheel 37 carries a pawl 40 engaging with theratchet wheel 36. The return movement is effected by the spring betweenthe arms 30 and 31. Either on the forward movement or on the returnmovement, according to circumstances, the pawl 40 engages the ratchetwheel 36 and drives the shaft 35. In this opposite direction the pawl 40slips teeth in the usual manner.

A casing 41 is attached to the bearing 38 and into this casing the shaft35 projects and has mounted thereon a bevel wheel 42, which meshes withanother bevel wheel 43 carrying on the exterior a sleeve 44 with aprojection or projections 45. This sleeve rotates over a fixedprojecting stem 46 fixed to the interior of the casing 41 so as not torotate. The stem 46 at the front end is formed with a projection orengaging member 47.

In use the sleeve 44 fits within the notched end of the sleeve 27 sothat the pin 45 engages in the notch or notches 29. In this positionalso the projection 47 comes into the slot or notch 26 in the boss 25.The boss 25 has formed therewith or attached thereto a rod 48 which isactually the rod of the curler.

This rod 48 is located as shown centrally in the interior of the casing16 and projects therefrom to a slight extent. At its lower end. it isformed with a notch 49 in the side thereof and on this lower end ismounted a device comprising a combined pressure plate and means forholding the strand of hair in a temporary manner prior to and during thefirst portion of the winding. This combined device comprises an upperplate 50 having an aperture therein of sulficient size to enable it topass up over the end of the rod 48. On the upper side this plate isformed with a concentrio depression or groove 51 (see Fig. into whichthe end of the curler casing fits as shown. This plate is also providedwith a notch 52 (see Fig. 4). The under member comprises another plate53 pivoted at 54 to the plate 50 and having a quadrant or arc-likeportion 55. The radius of this quadrant or arc-like portion 55 is suchthat the plate 53 by being turned on the pivot 54 can be brought toengage in the notch or slot 49 in the end of the rod 48 to hold thecombined device comprised by the plates 50 and 53 in position on the endof the rod. T he plate 53 is moved by means of a handle 56, and taken atthe posi-' tion shown in Fig. 4, if the handle 56 is depressed to asuflicient extent, the plate 50 will be freed from the notch 49 enablingthe whole device to be detached from the rod 48. To

again attach the device it is simply necessary to pass the plate 50 overthe end. of the rod 48 and then to turn the plate to bring the portion55 into engagement with the notch 49;

this secures the device in position.

The plate 50 also is formed with a projecting portion 57 so disposedthat when the quadrant or arc-like portion 55 engages the notch 49, itcomes over the notch 52 so that the flat end 58 of the portion 53approaches the end of this notch. Between this fiat end 58 and the endof the notch 52 the strand of hair is adapted temporarily tobe heldduring the first portion of the winding operation the strand of hairbeing brought into position into the notch prior to the completemovement of the plate 53.

A clutch or friction member is mounted to slide on the rod 48 andcomiprises a sleeve 59 with a bore therethrough o sufiicient size tomove easily on the rod 48. This sleeve is'enlarged in an intermediateposition, and the enlargement formed with groove 60. Around this groovedportion is located a helical spring 61, the ends 62 of which project asshown in Fig. 8. The parts are of such diameter that the exterior of thespring 61 when free to expand comes into tight grip-- ping contact withthe interior surface of the inner casing 16 or the sleeve carriedthereby. When, however, the ends 62 are brought toget-her, the efiectivediameter of the turns of the spring is lessened and these then come out'of gripping contact with the interior surthrough a right angle, it willbe understood that the ends 62 of the spring are brought closelytogether owing to the cam-like action of the slot- 64 and the spring isbrought out of gripping; contact with the inner sleeve. When the member63 is turned in the opposite direction, or allowed to turn in thisdirection, owing to the expansive action of the spring, the turnsthereof again come into gripping contact with the inner casing. On tothe reduced end 65 of the sliding member 59 is adapted to be mounted amoving pressure plate 66 which is held in position by a pin 67 on themember 59 engaging in a. corresponding aperture 68 in the plate. Theshape oi the plate is shown in Fig. and as will be seen this platecomprises a strip-like member 69 which partly envelops and is attachedto the plate and which at the free extension comprises a tongue 70. Thistongue 70 projects as shown through the slot and forms a guiding memberfor the strand or hair. Where the member 69 meets the plate 66 the plateis formed with a bevel 71 as shown in Fig. 10. The plate 66 is madedetachable as shown so that it desired it can be placed on the reducedend 65 from either end, so as to cause the tongue '50 to project fromthe slot l5 in either direction, according' to the direction of winding.By n'ianipulating the member 68' the spring 61 can be brought out ofgripping engagement and the whole device comprising the member 59 and.

plate 66 can be slidden on the rod 48 and within the casing. It can forexample be brought into close proximity with the plate 50 and this isthe position ready for curling the hair on the rod.

'lfhe operation is asiollows: Rotation is oftected by manipulating thehandles and 81 previously explained and this causes the sleeve 27 withthe winder parts attached thereto as previously explained to be rotatedin the connector 22 which does not rotate, so that the whole winderrotates around the rod 48 which is held fixed by theprojectioii l?engaging *ith the notch 26; at the lower end it will be appreciated thatthe projecting portion of the winder rotates in the concentric groove51. Owing to the frictional connection of the spring 61 the mom )6! 59and upper pre .re plate 66 are rotated with the winds and is pointed outthat to move the upper pressure plate 66 along the rod 48 and within theeasing, it is necessary to exert good deal of pros suer on the undersideof the plate 66 to overcome the frictional gripping of the spring 61 onthe interior of the casing. The strand of hair engaged in the notch 52as previously explained and temporarily helc by the base 58 and then thestrand of hair is placed between the tongue 70 and the ca. gand windingzcommenced. The hair is carried round by the tongue and the relativemovement causes it to be spread out and pulled between the two platesand 66, the bevel 71 liacilita o; the

entry of the hair between these plates. Owing to the resistance tolongitudinal movement of the plate 6'6 the hair is subjected to pressureand is spread out into a flat strand similar to tl illustrated in Fig.12 but with the turns touching each other. By continued winding thewhole of the strandot' hair the like, or that portion it is desiredshould be treated, is brought between the two pressure pla es, and inthis action the upper pressure plate 66 is forced along the rod 48against the trict-ional grip of the spring. Consequently, during thewhole of the Wilding; operation the hair being wound is subjected topressure and compression, and moreover this pressure or compression ismaintained during the whole of the subsequent treatment, and may beincreased by forcing the top plate downwards by hand.

While the heater inside the winding portion is preferably in operationand consequently the hair is subjected to heat treatment whileit isbeing wound and a consequence the swelling occasioned by thispreliminary heating increases the pressure or compression. More over thepressure or compression acts upon the hair while in the swollencondition.

Fig. 11 shows a number of turns of the coilillustrating how these aresubjected to pressure between the two plates. A portion of the figureshows the method by which the strand of hair passes between the tongue70 and the casing and is turned under by the bevel 71 to come beneaththe pressure plate 66 and to be spread above the last made coil of thehelix. 7

Any suitable means may be provided for rotating; the winder around thenon-rotatable rod and in some cases this may take the form ot a flexibleor other shaft driven from a pedal or by power means, pi terably undercontrol. This flexible or other shaft would be prov ded with a suitablecoupling means i it to be put into'operative connection with the windingdevice in a simple manner and as simply detach d ready to be coupled toanother winder. I

For winding a suitable reversing gear could be incorporated in thedrive. As shown on he drawings, this reverse is effected by uncoiu ingthe tool comprising the levers 36 and from the winder and placing theend lettered 72 into engagement with the sleeve 27 The end lettered 72nd notch 29. on the drawing comprising an exterior casing cap which isadapted to be removed exposing: a structure similar to that at the otherend, that is to say a sleeve 44 and projection 47. When thus used thecap canbe placed a enthouto'fuse.

the first coil or coils have been wound rod, it is no longer essentialto hold 1 ii bi 711 the face he of the plate 53 and the end 0 the notch52 and consequently hair is being wound, the electric the operator neednot cause pressure to be exerted thereon, but the pressure between thecoils holds the parts in position. Similarly at the end of the windingit is not necessary as at present to tie or otherwise secure the end orother portion of the strand of hair being treated to the rod as thepressure by which it is held between the pressure plates secures thefinished coil in position.

In place of the spring means gripping the interior of the windingcasing, in some cases the spring may grip around the rod, and with thisconstruction, after the winding has been effected, the winder may beentirely removed from the curler leaving the hair coiled on the curlerrod and held between the two pressure plates. With this construction,other heating means may then be placed around the hair coiled on the rodif so desired.

The curler rod may be a simple solid rod, for example as shown on thedrawings, or a hollow rod or a compound rod comprising an inner memberwhich may be hollow or solid and an outer sleeve-like member.

The hair coiled on the rod may be impregnated with any desired liquid orcompound, or may be moistened by water. This treatment by liquid orcompound may be applied periodically during the whole of the heatingtreatment. In addition the coiled hair can be treated with oil of anykind or other neutralizing agent whilst the winding means is in positionand while the hair is under heat. The slot in the winder serves toenable the heat to be dissipated, thus preventing overheating, and alsoenables the hair held pressed on the rod to be partly exposed so thatmoisture, compound or oil can be applied thereto while it is undertreatment.

The winder may be made in one more p arts hinged or otherwise attachedtogether and adapted to be moved apart or closed together enabling themto encircle the rod or the like,

and in all preferred forms comprise a hollow chamber or chambers for thereception of the heating medium. This heating medium may be steam or hotwater or other liquid, and the chamber or chambers of the winder may beincluded in a circulation for such fluid. In other cases however thehollow chamber or chambers have an electric heating element or elementsas c escribed, the element or elements being included in a desiredcircuit or circuits.

In some cases the warm or other winder may be held from rotation and apart of the rod or the like may be rotated within the warm winder, theeffect being precisely the same as that previously described.

In adidtion to the warm or other winder rotating relatively to the rodor the like upon which the hair is to be coiled, in some cases a meansfor carrying a chemical or compound preferably in the form of a shapedsachet may be employed. This chemical is thus ready for use when thestrand of hair has been coiled on the rod to a cesired extent and can berendered operative by the heat treatment, by the addition thereto ofwater or other liquid or by a combination of such means. The sachet maybe shaped to fit into a suitable shaped chamber which may partlyencircle the strand of hair-and the interior chamber may haveperforated, slotted or other walls facilitating access of the materialto the hair. 7 I

By applying heat to the hair at the same time as it is coiled on the rodor the like and preferably subjected to pressure, it is pointed out thatthe hair swells immediately and becomes soft, thus enabling it readilyto be coiled and bringing it in a condition responsive to the coilingand pressure'treat-ment, and set up initial pressureby the swelling.During the continuance of the heating the hair dries and contracts andthus readily absorbs the treatin liquid or compound and is ready to takea permanent set.

In use, it will be realized that the winder and compression producingrod on which the strand of hair is coiled may be employed for treatingstrands of hair which have not been already subjected to permanentwaving treatment, and in this case the whole ofthe strand extending fromscalp to the free end may be wound on the rod. In other cases where thestrand of hair has been permanently waved, and where since suchpermanent waving the hair has grown, the portion of the hair between thescalp and the end of the waved portion, which has not previously beentreated, may with the device constructed according to the invention betreated, as when, in coiling the strand on the rod, at least thatportion of the strand commencing at the scalp, when the portion that hasalready been waved reaches the slot in the warm winder, no furtherportion of the strand is wound upon the rod. The portion of the strandalready on the rod is treated and the portion of the strand left outdoes not come to any harm or is not injured in any way as thetemperature is low and consequently this projecting portion of thestrand is not liable to become damaged or burnt.

In some cases in place of the device illustrated for holding the lowerpressure plate in position, other means may be adopted, for example therod on which the hair is coiled may be made in the manner of a split pinand have a small eye at the lower end adapted to take a pin forpreventing the removal of the pressure plate threaded on to the end ofthe re d. A gain, other means than that illustrated may be used, in somecases, for holding the strand of hair temporarily during the firstportion of the winding.

The invention is not limited to the various constructional embodimentsor modifications described as many variations may be made coming withinthe scope of the claims.

What I claim and desire to secure by Let ters Patent of the UnitedStates of America is 1. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising arod on which the hair is adapted to be coiled, means on the rod againstwhich one end of the coil of hair on the rod is adapted to take, othermeans on the rod adapted to take against the other end of th said coilof hair, and means for causing the two last mentioned means to subjectthe coil of hair on the.

rod to pressure in a' direction parallel to the axis of the rod, for thepurposes set forth.-

2. Devices for waving and curling hair.

comprising a rod, a pressure plate detaehably secured to one end of therod, and another pressure plate adapted to move axially on the rodagainst a suitable resisting medium in order to hold the hair coiled onthe rod between the plates under pressure.

3. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachaloly secured to one end of the rod, means associated withthe said pressure plate to hold a strand of hair during the preliminarywinding on the rod, and another pressure plate adapted to move axiallyon the rod against a suitable re-.

sisting medium in order to hold the hair coiled on the rod between thetwo plates under pressure.

t. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachably secured to one end of the rod, means associated withthe said pressure plate to hold a strand of hair during the preliminarywinding on tee rod, another pressure plate adapted to move axially onthe rod, and spring means associated with the second mentioned pressureplate and adapted to grip with a tight frictional grip the rod, in orderto hold the hair coiled on the rod between the two plates underpressure, and to move against the frictional grip by the coiling of thehair on the rod.

' 5. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachahly secured to one end of the rod, another pressure plateadapted to move axially on the rod against a. suitable resisting medium,a winder associated with the rod and adapted to e11- circle it to adesired extent, and means for rotating the said winder with respect tothe rod, all for the purposes set forth.

6. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachably secured to one end of the rod, another pressure plateadapted to move axially on the rod against a suitable resisting medium,a winder associated with the rod and adapted to encircle it to a.desired extent, means for rotating the said winder with respect to therod, and heating means associated with the winder, all for the purposesset forth.

7. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate .detachably secured to one end of the rod, another pressure plateadapted to move axially on the rod against a suitable resisting medium,a winder comprising a hollow body associated with the rod and adapted toencircle it to a desired extent, heating means located in the hollowvlocated in the hollow body of the winden'and means for rotating thewinder with respect to the rod all for the purposes set forth.

' 9. Devices for waving and curling hair comp-rising a rod, a pressureplatedetachably secured to one end of the rod, another pressure plateadapted to move axially on the rod against a suitable resisting medium,a winder associated with the rod and adapted to encircle it to a desiredextent, means for rotating the winder with respect to the rod, heatingmeans associated with the winder, and a slot extending along the side ofthe winder, all for the purposes set forth.

10. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachably secured to one end of the rod, another pres sure plateadapted to move axially on the rod, a winder formed by a sleeveassociated with the rod and adapted to encircle it to a desired extent,spring means associated with the second mentioned pressure plate adaptedto come into frictional gripping contact with the interior of the windersleeve, means for rotating the winder with respect to the rod, andheating means associated with the winder, all for the purposes setforth.

11. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachably secured to one end of the rod, another pressure plateadapted to move axially on the rod, a winder formed by a sleeveassociated with the rod and adapted to encircle it to a desired extent,spring means associated with the second mentioned pressure plate adaptedto come into frictional gripping contact with the interior of the windersleeve, means for releasing the frictional grip of the sleeve, means forrotating the winder upon and with respect to the rod, and heating meansassociated with the winder, all for the purposes set forth.

12. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachably secured to one end of the rod, a circular groove orrecess on the, inner surface of the with the rod and adapted to encircleit to. a desired extent so that the lower end of the sleeve enters thecircular groove in the first mentioned pressure plate, spring meansassociated with the second mentioned pressure plate adapted to come intofrictional gripping contact with the interior of the winder sleeve,means for rotating the winder sleeve with respect to the rod, andheating means associated with the winder, all for the purposes setforth.

13. Devices for waving and curling hair comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachably secured to one end of the rod, another pressure plateadapted to move axially on the rod against a suitable resisting medium,a sleeve-like winder associated with the rod and adapted to encircle itto a desired extent, means for rotating the winder with respect to therod, heating means associated with the winder, a slot extending alongthe side of the winder, and a hook-like tongue attached to the secondmentioned pressure plate adapted to project through the slot in thewinder to form a guide for the strand of hair, all for the purposes setforth.

14. Devices for waving and curling hair 0 comprising a rod, a pressureplate detachably secured to one end of the rod,another pressure plateadapted to move axially on the rod against a suitable resisting medium,a winder associated with the rod and adapted to encircle it to a desiredextent, means for rotating the winder with respect to the rod, heatingmeans associated with the winder, a slot extending along the side of thewinder, a hook-like tongue attached to the second mentioned pressureplate adapted to extend through the slot in the winder to form'a guidefor the strand of hair, and a bevel on the underside of the secondmentioned pres sure plate adjacent its junction with the tongue, all forthepurposes set forth.

In witness whereof I aflix my signature.

ALEXANDER CRAIG.

